The Greatest New Watches of the Previous Month

Whether or not it’s the coincidence with the WatchTime NY, WindUp NY, and Geneva Watch Days commerce reveals; the back-to-school spirit within the air; or another variety of necessary, zeitgeisty happenings, Sep ‘23 is definitely one for the books. From historic (and reasonably priced!) dive watches to attractive chronographs to automated subject watches, we’re dealing with a humiliation of riches within the type of timepieces of every kind: Excessive-end, entry-level, small, giant, subject, dive, chrono — all the pieces. Mainly, in the event you can’t discover one thing you’re keen on on this extra-long record of 14 items, you would possibly want to begin gathering one thing apart from watches!

Glad fall, and luxuriate in this look into a number of the month’s finest wristwear. 

Benrus Extremely-Deep

Within the Sixties, the “tremendous compressor” watch case was devised as a method of bettering watertightness — as a diver descended, the water stress would really enhance the case’s water resistance. Although easy screw-down crowns and casebacks proved to be higher options for water resistance, the tremendous compressor’s distinctive profile — with its twin crowns controlling an inside rotating bezel along with winding/setting — made for a lovable aesthetic. The brand new Benrus Extremely-Deep reimagines one of many basic Tremendous Compressor designs in a extremely trustworthy reissue, full with a 36.5mm chrome steel case, an automated Swiss motion from Soprod, and 200m of water resistance. With its included chrome steel Jubilee-style bracelet and blue nylon NATO strap, it’s a heck of a cut price at $1,095.

• Diameter: 36.5mm
• Motion: Soprod P024 automated
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Value: $1,095

Hamilton Khaki Discipline Expedition

2018’s Hamilton Khaki Discipline Mechanical supplied a much-needed reset within the watch business. Right here was a good-looking, military-inspired, hand-wound subject watch in a vintage-inspired measurement — from a big, historic watch model owned by an enormous luxurious conglomerate — for $500. Now, 5 years after the “FKM” introduced untold 1000’s into the watch-collecting fold, the Khaki Discipline Expedition is poised to do the identical. Obtainable in each 37mm and 41mm variations, this automated sequel boasts a compass bezel for navigation, a number of totally different dial colours, and a number of strap choices. Although it’s dearer than the KFM, its attractiveness, sensible motion selection, and broad availability are positive to make it successful. 

• Diameter: 37mm; 41mm
• Motion: Hamilton H-10 automated 
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Value: $995-$1,045

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act III

Following on the heels of two fashions launched earlier this 12 months (“Act I” and “Act II”), Blancpain has put the ending touches on its Seventieth-anniversary celebration of the Fifty Fathoms. Dubbed the Fifty Fathoms Seventieth Anniversary Act III, the brand new watch is a solid-gold tribute to the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, a military-approved model of one of many world’s first commercially accessible dive watches. Housed in a 9N yellow gold case and sporting a ceramic bezel insert, the Act III options the MIL-SPEC’s most identifiable function: a bi-color moisture indicator utilized on to the dial. Whereas it’s uncertain that one would want this security performance at present, it’s a pleasant aesthetic contact — and a becoming method to pay tribute to a timepiece that ushered within the period of recent SCUBA diving. 

• Diameter: 41.3mm
• Motion: Blancpain Calibre 1154.P2 automated
• Water Resistance: 300m
• Value: $32,000

Spaceview 2020 x RedBar Group Restricted Version

When Accutron launched in 1960, its digital motion was a revelation. Although it was pretty rapidly outmoded by quartz-powered know-how, the distinctive motion structure proved fascinating to observe collectors, who have been delighted when the model relaunched with the Spaceview 2020. Now, RedBar Group is releasing a particular, limited-edition model of the Spaceview 2020 with pink accents in celebration of the watch collector neighborhood. Measuring 43.5mm in chrome steel, it incorporates a smoked gray, openworked dial that enables one to view the delicate motion inside. Transport on a stainless-steel bracelet, it additionally features a black leather-based strap with RedBar-themed pink leather-based stitching. Restricted to simply 60 items, that is one it’s best to nab earlier than it disappears ceaselessly. 

• Diameter: 43.5mm
• Motion: Accutron electrostatic
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Value: $4,200

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton 

Formulation 1 world champion Lewis Hamilton is a longtime IWC fan and model ambassador. The brand new Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton, his third collaboration with the Schaffhausen-based maison, is a surprising amalgam of tremendous supplies, helpful problems, and haute horlogerie tropes which can be positive to place a smile on any watch lover’s face — and an excellent larger smile on the faces of 44 fortunate collectors with a spare $169,000. Encased in 43.5mm of platinum, the watch accommodates a one-minute tourbillon (which might be fully stopped for correct time-setting functions), a mix 60-minute and 12-hour chronograph totalizer, and a retrograde date show. A beautiful teal dial that includes Hamilton’s brand matches a teal textile strap, whereas 12 diamonds type the dial’s indices. 

• Diameter: 43.5mm
• Motion: IWC Calibre 89900 automated 
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Value: $169,000

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops 

In 2001, Ulysse Nardin turned the watch world on its head by introducing a timepiece with out conventional fingers, a conventional dial, or a winding crown. 2019’s Freak X toned down this outlandish design considerably by reintroducing a crown, making for a watch that was nonetheless unconventional, however that higher appealed to the lots. Now, the model has expanded the X sub-collection with the Freak X Ops, an journey/navy tackle an enchanting platform that mixes an entire host of notable options: First up is a 43mm case fashioned from black carbon fiber and inexperienced epoxy resin; subsequent is the Caliber UN-230 manufacture motion, which employs a flying carousel system that rotates round its personal axis to type the fingers; lastly, a silicon escapement and stability wheel present glorious magnetic resistance and timekeeping. The outcomes are eye-catching, technologically superior, and totally fascinating — all the pieces you possibly can need in a contemporary watch.

• Diameter: 43mm
• Motion: Caliber UN-230 Manufacture automated
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Value: $33,800

Panerai Luminor BiTempo Titanium DLC New York Version 

In celebration of the model’s new Madison Avenue boutique in Manhattan, Panerai has launched a special-edition Luminor BiTempo with GMT performance, a DLC-clad titanium case, and a caseback that includes the Brooklyn Bridge. Measuring 44mm, this blacked-out, travel-ready model of Panerai’s well-known dive watch options the gathering’s signature crown safety machine adorned with “New York” on the lever, plus a cool black “sandwich” dial that matches the case full with tone-on-tone gray indices, hand suggestions, sub-seconds show, and date window typography. Powered by the model’s automated Calibre P.9010/GMT, it packs a 3-day energy reserve, 300m of water resistance, and comes on an identical, recycled gray PET strap. Stealthy and good-looking, it’s the proper piece of Manhattan-ready wristwear. 

• Diameter: 44mm
• Motion: Panerai Calibre P.9010/GMT automated 
• Water Resistance: 300m
• Value: $12,700

Oris Divers Sixty-5 Chronograph 

Although the dive chronograph class is steadily increasing, it’s nonetheless restricted relative to the embarrassment of time-only divers from manufacturers each giant and small. Oris’s latest Divers Sixty-5 Chronograph is a wonderful selection for somebody who desires a extremely waterproof chrono at a smaller measurement — its newly retooled 40mm case simply matches all kinds of wrists, and its attractiveness, utilitarian function set, and selection of metal “rivet”-style bracelet or black deer leather-based strap make it a flexible selection for land or sea. A dual-register chronograph structure, full of shiny Tremendous-LumiNova and powered by the automated Oris Calibre 771 motion, offers glorious timekeeping, whereas a unidirectional, rotating dive bezel makes timing discrete occasions a cinch. In brief: When you’re on the lookout for a dive chrono, you’ll be able to’t do a lot better than this.

• Diameter: 40mm
• Motion: Oris Calibre 771 automated 
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Value: $4,200-$4,400

Bulova Oceanographer GMT 

Bulova’s Oceanographer collection of reasonably priced, automated “Satan Diver” watches is getting a welcome addition of three colourful GMT fashions. Powered by the Swiss-made, automated Miyota Caliber 9075, every options an independently adjustable native 12-hour hand for fast time zone modifications whereas touring. What’s extra, every additionally options each a unidirectional dive bezel in addition to a 24-hour scale on the dial, which means that dive timing performance is maintained alongside GMT performance. Housed in a 41mm chrome steel cushion case, the Oceanographer GMT is available in a “root beer” configuration with a black and brown bezel and a rose gold-tone case and bracelet; a “lume” variant with a gunmetal IP case and bezel mixed with a monochromatic dial dial; and a “Pepsi” model with a bi-color pink and blue bezel, chrome steel case, and blue dial. 

• Diameter: 41mm
• Motion: Miyota Caliber 9075 automated 
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Value: $1,295-$1,395

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Version 

Omega is anticipating its participation as official timekeeper within the 2024 version of the America’s Cup in Barcelona with a watch that celebrates Emirates Workforce New Zealand, the regatta’s defending champions. Dubbed the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Version, it’s a extremely waterproof, sturdy chronograph finished up within the group’s black and blue livery and kitted out with a regatta timer — a operate that enables the wearer to exactly time the countdown to a race. Boasting the model’s NAIAD LOCK caseback in addition to a helium escape valve, the Planet Ocean is a severe diver in addition to a useful chronograph, boasting a whopping 600m of water resistance along with the model’s tremendous superior Grasp Chronometer Calibre 9900 automated motion. 

• Diameter: 45.5mm
• Motion: Omega Grasp Chronometer Calibre 9900 automated
• Water Resistance: 600m
• Value: $13,300

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint X Porsche

Persevering with its relationship with Porsche that started in 2021, TAG Heuer has launched two new variations of its beloved Carrera chronograph that function automotive-inspired dials, a brand new automated motion, and a case accessible in chrome steel or 5N rose gold. Sixtieth-anniversary tributes to each the unique Heuer Carrera in addition to the Porsche 911 (additionally dubbed “Carrera”), the contemporary Chronosprint fashions are powered by an up to date model of TAG Heuer’s automated TH20 motion known as the TH20-08, which has a novel function: When the chronograph is engaged, the seconds hand first accelerates rapidly, then slows, and at last restarts, mirroring a 911’s acceleration to 100 km/h over 9.1 seconds. Moreover, two of the watch’s three subdials function “redline” printing, mirroring gauges on a classic racing car.  

• Diameter: 42mm
• Motion: TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-08 Automated 
• Water Resistance: 100m 
• Value: $9,200-$23,550

Blancpain X SWATCH Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms 

The sequel to Swatch’s 2022 MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega, the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms recreates that watch’s magic in dive watch type — however this time, it’s automated, powered by Swatch’s Sistem51 motion. The Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms, at present  accessible in 5 totally different iterations, is a 42.3mm, $400 model of Blancpain’s ultra-luxury dive watch, which launched in 1953 and coincided with the start of leisure SCUBA diving. Massive and colourful, every comes paired to a NATO-style strap, incorporates a 120-click dive bezel, and boasts 50m of water resistance. (They even function 4:30 date home windows, very like lots of their higher-end brethren.) Whereas demand doesn’t appear to be as excessive as that for the MoonSwatch, traces have been forming around the globe at Swatch shops, signaling that the horological model of Beanie Child insanity could be very a lot right here to remain. 

• Diameter: 42.3mm
• Motion: SWATCH Sistem 51 automated
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Value: $400

Grand Seiko SBGJ273 

The most recent in an extended line of Grand Seiko references that remember the altering of the seasons, the SCGJ273 incorporates a attractive, striated pink dial that “calls to thoughts the way in which lacquered picket flooring in a conventional Japanese constructing replicate the leaves of out of doors maple bushes.” Clocking in at a extremely versatile 39.5mm, this isn’t a extremely waterproof instrument watch by any means, however its hi-beat GMT performance — powered by the Grand Seiko 9S86 motion — makes for a wonderful journey companion, whereas its matching, chrome steel bracelet ensures a cushty carrying expertise. Elegant and modern, the SCGJ273 offers a compelling different to the extra pedestrian GMT fare of Swiss watchmaking. 

• Diameter: 39.5mm
• Motion: Grand Seiko 9S86 automated
• Water Resistance: Splash resistant
• Value: $7,100

Zenith Chronomaster Authentic Black Tricolor Dial 

It’s powerful to argue with a watch as good-looking, technologically groundbreaking, and traditionally necessary because the Zenith El Primero. Although it is available in many guises, some of the basic and fascinating is the classic A386, a watch that has served as the premise of many a revival mannequin since its introduction within the late Sixties. Although this new iteration is basically only a black-dialed tackle the A386’s famed tricolor aesthetic, it’s just too rattling good trying to not spotlight: Certainly, with its blue and gray chronograph totalizers, matching metal bracelet, and properly sized 38mm case — to not point out its El Primero hi-beat motion — it could be some of the compelling chronograph choices in the marketplace. 

• Diameter: 38mm
• Motion: Zenith El Primero 3600
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Value: $9,500-$10,000